In May 2023, I arrived in Doberdò del Lago, the starting point of the Carso Trail (Karst Trail) with shaky legs and my heart pounding. It was my first bikepacking event, I’d had little time to train and, above all, the weather forecast predicted three days of torrential rain. However, I decided to put myself to the test because the Karst Plateau had been calling me for some time.

The Karst (from 'kar', stone) is a rocky plateau stretching between Friuli-Venezia Giulia, in the northeast of Italy, Slovenia and Croatia. Its limestone rocks, shaped by water, have over time given rise to caves, canyons and dolines – natural funnels through which water seeps into underground cavities. The Slovenian Karst, which is particularly wooded and wild, is home to a wealth of wildlife, including bears and wolves.

This year's itinerary was to start from Doberdò del Lago and explore the Goriška Karst before entering the Slovenian Karst and following the turquoise waters of the Soča river.

The forecast had not lied: breaks from the torrential rain were rare. Yet, despite the colours muted by the grey sky, the beauty of the route was apparent. Among the highlights were the fun singletrack through the Mediterranean maquis shrubland, the mysterious Predjama Castle, Lake Cerknica – a natural wonder that is the result of karstification – the Cottur cycle path, which leads to Trieste in the most scenic of ways, and the magical Salvia path, which offers breathtaking views of the sea.

There’s something else that makes this route so special. As you ride it, you pass through areas that retain the sombre memory of the bloody battles that took place during the First World War. Passing through memorials and old trenches, the trail meanders between Italy and Slovenia completely oblivious of the political border, reminding us of how lucky we are to be able to freely cross that border line today.

In this Collection, I’ve divided the 316-kilometre (196 mi) route into three stages. If you have more time, it’s possible to shorten the stages so that you can take your time visiting magical places along the way. Finding places to sleep in the villages is not difficult, but as they’re small, I recommend booking in advance. Accommodation often offers excellent dinners. Stocking up on food and water is also easy, but still takes some planning.

The starting point, Doberdò del Lago, doesn’t have a railway station, but you can take a train to Gorizia or Ronchi dei Legionari and then continue by bicycle. In Doberdò del Lago, the Gradina Visitor Centre offers catering and overnight accommodation. The loop also passes through Gorizia, so an alternative is to start and end the trip there.

I used a monstercross bike (rigid fork, racing handlebars, but MTB geometry and 29" wheels) and – apart from some rockier passages at the beginning and end of the track – I got on very well. That said, a mountain bike probably allows you to tackle the trail with more comfort.

The track changes every year and always offers new surprises. To register for the next edition of the Carso Trail visit: noborderadventure.com/carsotrail/en/home-en-2.

Enjoy your adventure without borders!