Scottish winter – five superb mountaineering routes in Lochaber

Lochaber is arguably Scotland’s greatest winter mountaineering region. While conditions tend to be more reliable in the Cairngorms, when the weather gods do smile on the west, Lochaber is hard to beat.

There’s everything from classic winter climbs and life-affirming ridge traverses to superb but technically straightforward winter walks. Ben Nevis’ North Face is world renowned, attracting mountaineers from far and wide to measure themselves against this unique climbing arena. Meanwhile, Glen Coe and the Mamores are home to some of the great winter mountain journeys in the UK.

This Collection follows five days of adventure during the London Mountaineering Club’s 2022 Scottish Winter Meet. I kicked off the week with the incredible traverses of Ben Nevis’ Càrn Mòr Dearg Arête and the Ring Of Steall, two of Scotland’s most coveted winter routes. I ventured to Glen Coe for a shorter adventure on Buachaille Etive Beag on day three, before heading back to the Mamores for an ascent of Stob Bàn’s South Gully on day four. My final adventure was a beautiful ascent of Beinn a’ Bheithir, the giant mountain above Ballachulish.

All these adventures are grade one winter routes, perfect introductions to Scottish winter mountaineering. Each is doable without the need for climbing equipment and they only require one standard walking axe. Although my climbing partner Mirek and I used a rope for Stob Bàn’s South Gully, this was to practise techniques on relatively easy ground, rather than for safety.

Nevertheless, I’d recommend doing a winter skills course to learn the necessary techniques and knowledge needed for these kinds of adventures. Carrying an ice axe and wearing crampons without the proper knowledge of how to use them is just as dangerous as not using them at all.

Other kit I’d recommend includes: a helmet, which is essential for any sections where rock can fall from above; a head torch for early starts and late finishes; a group shelter, blizzard jacket and first aid kit for emergency situations; a USB power bank; a topographical map and compass; gaiters; a flask of tea or coffee; and plenty of food. In terms of clothing, I’d recommend wearing waterproof trousers with an insulated pair underneath, multiple midlayers, a quality waterproof jacket, a beanie hat and gloves. Carry a spare pair of gloves and a spare hat, as well as a warm puffer jacket for any times you stop. However, the best way to stay toasty and safe on winter walks is to keep moving and eat regularly.

We were lucky enough to enjoy five days of pretty decent conditions. However, the fickle nature of the UK’s winter means there’s no guarantee of good snow cover at any time of year. The most reliable months are usually February and March, when layers of snow and ice have had the chance to build throughout the season.

We stayed at the excellent Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, a great base where you can literally walk from the front door onto routes on the Ben and the western Mamores. There’s loads of good accommodation options in the region – special mention should go to Glen Coe’s Kingshouse Hotel and the Clachaig Inn – while Fort William has lots of places to eat and drink, and shops for stocking up on supplies.

Enjoy these five contrasting adventures, which are each as sensational as the last. Scotland, how do you do it?

Watch a short film of my adventures: