Centuries-old chestnut forests, medieval castles, ancient Roman roads, Tuscan hills covered with olive groves and vineyards, natural sculptures carved by erosion: the Via degli Dei (Way of the Gods) is a journey through the history and iconic landscapes of Italy’s Tuscan-Emilian Apennines.

About 130 kilometres (80 mi) long, this hiking route connects Bologna to Florence on the trade paths beaten in ancient times by the Etruscans and, later, by the Romans, who built the Flaminia Militare road in this area. During the Middle Ages, there was a great bustle of merchants who crossed the Apennines along these routes, bringing wagons, livestock and goods from distant cities.

Conceived by a group of Bolognese friends of the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI), the Via degli Dei, unlike other paths, has no religious significance. The name is due to the crossing of a series of peaks and localities (Monte Adone, Monzuno, Monte Venere and Monte Luario) named after Roman divinities. That said, spirituality can find ample space in the sounds of the woods, in the acceptance of fatigue and in the magic of the places crossed.

Highlights of this route include the historic centres of Bologna and Florence, the remains of the Flaminia Militare, the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, the Contrafforte Pliocenico Nature Reserve, the Sanctuary of Monte Senario and the archaeological area of Fiesole. I tell you about these and other incredible places in the description of the individual Tours.

I’ve divided the itinerary into six stages and added a variant to the last stage. You can hike the stages differently though, shortening or lengthening them to your liking. As for the direction, I chose to start in Bologna and head south, but you can also do the opposite and start in Florence. Both cities offer good connections via the rail network. You can check the train timetables on the Trenitalia website: trenitalia.com/en.html.

The Via degli Dei doesn’t present any particular technical difficulties, but it’s still a demanding route. There are some steep sections, both uphill and downhill, and trekking poles may be useful during ascents and to gain stability on descents.

The best time to undertake the trek is during spring and autumn. In winter, frequent rains can make the ground muddy and slippery, while in summer, high temperatures can be challenging.

Free camping and bivvying are prohibited along the route. However, there are hotels, b&bs, hostels and farmhouses in the villages where the stages end or in the nearby villages. I advise you to book accommodation in advance, especially during the high season, as places are limited. If you prefer to sleep in a tent, you can contact accommodation facilities that allow you to pitch your tent in exchange for an affordable fee or dinner.

When it comes to local food, it really deserves a separate chapter. I’ll limit myself to telling you that this route lies between Emilia and Tuscany, two regions where the culinary tradition is particularly rich and varied. From tortelli to ribollita, from castagnaccio to cantucci: taste everything you can!

On the official Via degli Dei website, you’ll find a list of accommodations, as well as a lot of other valuable information: en.viadeglidei.it