This adventure takes you to the Cantal Mountains in the heart of the department of the same name. Located in the Regional Natural Park of the Auvergne Volcanoes, the Cantal Mountains are home to several volcanic summits that actually form a single volcano, the largest volcano in Europe.

Erosion and other geological phenomena have shaped the massif. Where the original volcano stood, you now find mountain peaks and the town of Planèzes. Inhospitable in winter, this pastoral region becomes a green meadow in spring. In summer, herds of Salers cows graze on the mountain pastures. The flora is rich and varied, especially the famous gentian and the magical but toxic foxgloves (don’t touch them!).

The route proposed here follows the GR 400, the Tour des Volcans du Cantal, and passes by the main summits of the Cantalien massif. It is a high-altitude trail, between burons (small shepherd huts) and summits, pastures and viewpoints. You follow paths that lead to the famous Puy Mary, the Plomb du Cantal, the Brèche de Roland, and the Puy Violent. The walk is challenging, with both uphill and downhill sections. Sometimes you hike along ridgelines or across vast grasslands.

I propose to complete this 136-kilometre (84.5 mi) loop in eight days, but you can adjust it according to your ability and preference. The stages offer a balance between sporty days and easier distances. I recommend using one or two hiking poles to reduce strain on your joints, no matter your age and ability.

As detailed in each stage, it’s possible to stay in a gîte or camp out in a bivvy bag. On the first stage, you have to bivvy as you finish in the middle of nature. If you’d prefer to sleep in a gîte that evening, you have to make a slight detour before the end of the stage to reach the Meije Costes refuge (make sure you book in advance). Bivvying is allowed along the entire GR 400 but respect any local restrictions and be careful to leave no trace.

I’ve also included information on where you can pick up food supplies on each stage. Sometimes, for example on the first day, you don’t have the possibility to buy food en route. I advise taking the time to plan out your meals before you set off. Pack some snacks and pay attention to the weight/calories ratio. Access to drinking water is also uncertain. The path occasionally crosses a spring, stream or watering hole. You should treat the water before drinking it, even if it seems clear. I advise bringing two water bottles so you can start each stage with two liters of water.

You can choose to do the GR 400 between mid-May and mid-November when the temperatures are milder and the paths are clear from snow. As the weather may hold some surprises, I advise you to check the forecast before starting and to adapt your equipment and clothing accordingly.

The route makes a loop from Murat, a municipality that is easily accessible by car or train. Trains run between Clermont-Ferrand four times per day. I advise taking the time to visit Murat at the beginning or end of the eight days of hiking. Historically, this beautiful town was an important crossroads of the Haute-Auvergne and is located in a magnificent setting.